Rather than planning the typical summer escape to the shores of the Gulf Coast, why not embark on a true island adventure? There’s no need for a boat for this island-hopping junket; simply follow the southernmost 110 miles of Highway U.S. 1, also known as the Florida Keys Scenic Highway. The famous route is a series of forty-two bridges that connect forty-three island clusters that make up the Florida Keys.
Venturing south, as you cross the first channel of water that separates the Florida peninsula from the chain of islands, the Jimmy Buffett lyrics “Changes in latitude, changes in attitude” take on new meaning. The string of islands beyond the mainland is a world of its own, as palm trees sway in the coastal breeze, exotic birds fill the sky, and giant green iguanas scamper about.
Key Largo is your first must-see stop for settling into the island groove. John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, which is considered the dive capital of the Keys, hosts the first undersea park in the United States. The shallow waters of Cannon Beach are a fantastic snorkeling experience with a glimpse into the underwater world of the country’s only living coral reefs—the crystal-clear waters teem with marine life. Brightly colored parrot fish, barracudas, and shiny silver mackerel are a mere arm’s length away.
After swimming with the fishes, treat yourself to the “catch of the day” at an inviting tiki hut. Local cuisine, including stone crab, conch fritters, and Key lime pie, are not to be missed. Grab a shoreside table and sip a chilled island punch as you watch the fishing boat regatta return to port.
When planning where to lay your head for a well-deserved night’s rest, search websites like VRBO or Airbnb for unique locations. You’ll find many options, from pirate-themed bungalows to an evening on a yacht anchored just offshore.
ISLAND HOPPING
The Florida Keys Scenic Highway is rated one of the most scenic drives in the country. The endless panoramic views of turquoise waters from the elevated vantage of bridge crossings will leave you breathless.
If you love to fish the ocean’s deep waters or have always wanted to try, Islamorada Island is considered the Sport Fishing Capital of the World. There is a wide selection of seasoned boat captains for hire to assist you.
Further along the chain of islands, plan a visit to the Old Seven Mile Bridge in Marathon. Interesting historic markers recount the story of oil tycoon Henry Flagler’s construction of the Overseas Railroad, linking the Florida mainland with Key West. It is still considered one of the engineering wonders of the world.
Only the initial two and a half miles remain open. With access limited to pedestrians and bicyclists, it makes for a picturesque, leisurely stroll across the channel that separates the Gulf of Mexico from the Atlantic Ocean. The route also takes visitors to Pigeon Island, a restored workers camp that housed bridge laborers.
Crossing the bridge, visitors arrive at what’s considered the Lower Keys. Calusa Beach is a local favorite if you and the family are ready for another day in the sand. The shallow, clear water and white sand make for great snorkeling. The area is excellent for renting a kayak and exploring the maze of islands created by the hundreds of mangrove islets. Paddling through tight channels within this forest of seemingly walking shrubbery provides an up-close view of fish and other organisms seeking shelter from predators.
THE END OF THE ROAD
Eventually, you will cross the Boca Chica Bridge to arrive at the final island in the chain, Key West. You are now closer to Cuba than Miami. Because of its strategic location along the ninety-mile-wide deep shipping channel between the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico, the island has long been considered the “Gibraltar of the West.”
In the 1830s, Key West was the wealthiest city per capita in the United States. Early wealth resulted in the construction of lavish mansions throughout the island’s historic district. Incorporating Neoclassical, Greek Rival, and the island’s unique Conch architectural styles, Key West covers the gamut of housing designs.
Hop on a Conch Train Tour to begin your exploration. As the train snakes its way through the palm tree-lined streets, the engineer provides an interesting and amusing narrative filled with historical facts, trivia, and funny anecdotes recounting the Conch Republic’s colorful history. Not only is this entertaining, but it also provides you with a list of sites of interest to return to for further exploration.
Finally, no visit would be complete without a stroll down Duval Street, known for its lively atmosphere, restaurants and shops. Enjoy a tropical cocktail at the infamous Sloppy Joe’s Bar – Ernest Hemingway’s favorite haunt – and a world-famous Maine lobster roll at DJ’s Clam Shack.
Before loading up and heading home, snap a picture by the southernmost point buoy, standing under the Highway U.S. 1 “0 Mile Marker.” One or more of you will be dwarfed by a nearby banyan tree’s enormous root system as hundreds of wild roosters roam freely about the streets. It’s time to bid so long, but not farewell, to the Florida Keys. Because once you’ve visited, you are sure to return.
THINGS TO DO IN THE KEYS
Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum
Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary
Dry Tortugas National Park
The Overseas Highway
Bahia Honda State Park
Sunset Celebration at Mallory Square
Turtle Hospital
Key West Lighthouse & Keeper’s Quarters Museum
Mel Fisher Maritime Museum
For more information on the Florida Keys or to plan your trip, visit fla-keys.com and visitflorida.com.
WORDS Bob Robinson
IMAGES Bob Robinson and courtesy Key West Tourism
