[title subtitle=” WORDS Dwain Hebda
IMAGES courtesy featured restaurants”][/title]
A few years ago, a group of us spent some time in Fort Smith attending the Old Fort Days Rodeo. After a particularly entertaining evening on the grounds, we were looking for a late dinner that showed off the local fare. Initially, the non-bar options appeared slim that night until we turned a corner and Benson’s Grill came into view. We slid into a booth, unaware that we were about to eat like kings, as fascinated by the fact there still was an independent, 24-hour spot to be had as we were impressed by the impeccable burgers and sides.
Upon doing some research, we found Fort Smith actually enjoys a trove of riches when it comes to diners. Ed Walker’s Drive-In (for the French Dip) and Miss Anna’s on Towson (try the plate lunches) have also enjoyed a long and flavorful partnership with the community, providing home cooking and tradition to a restaurant scene increasingly dominated by chains.
Being Arkansas is a land of patchwork small towns and close-knit communities, the hometown diner is as alive and well here. We sniffed out a few of these below, but what follows is nothing close to an exhaustive list. That’s the fun of diners and small-town cafés: you never know when you’re going to discover something delicious. So, get off the highway and take the backroads this summer and drop us a line about what you discover. We’re always hungry to hear from you.
BLUEBELL CAFÉ & COUNTRY STORE
Story, Arkansas
At the Bluebell, the story is a rich one, intertwined with small town pride in the local culture and the natural grandeur that surrounds it.
At the heart of this legendary spot is owner Lori Carly, a den mother of sorts, particularly for the hikers that drop off the Ouachita Trail and the mountain bikers tackling the Womble Trail nearby. In addition to being a wealth of information about both routes, she’s also famous for shuttling hikers and bikers to their respective shoving off points.
She’s so well-known in these parts among trekkers that the Bluebell is listed as a landmark on Ouachita Trail enthusiast websites and in 2019, the café was listed as one of the twenty Best Restaurants on America’s Long Distance Hiking Trails by thehikinglife.com.
The burgers get much of the attention here, but the menu also includes other sandwiches as well as excellent home cooking and a full breakfast menu. And, as any café of its stature would, the Bluebell is open seven days a week. A special treat is to visit on Saturday night and experience the long-standing tradition of jam sessions by locals who sit, strum and sing. No matter where you’re from, you’ll feel right at home.
Bluebell Café & Country Store
8 Hwy 298 East, Story, AR
870.867.3999
bluebellcafeandcountrystore.com
OZARK CAFÉ
Jasper, Arkansas
Situated in tiny Jasper, a popular shoving-off spot on the Buffalo River and home to soaring bluffs, meandering elk and breathtaking natural beauty, Ozark Café boasts generations of well-fed tourists as well as the undying loyalty of locals, all under one roof.
Opened in 1909, the café welcomes guests from around the world every year. No less than the New York Times newspaper, Food & Wine magazine and TV show “Man vs. Food” have paid a visit to the spot. The second-oldest restaurant in The Natural State, it sits as proudly on the town square as it does on the National Register of Historic Places.
Everything here is made fresh and served with a smile. A headliner is the Excaliburger, a beefy monstrosity that substitutes grilled cheese sandwiches for hamburger buns. But even the less-dramatic home-cooked dishes are big-portioned and done exceptionally well. In fact, Delish.com called the place’s chocolate gravy Arkansas’s must-try dish from a list of delicacies in all fifty states and the New York Times Magazine’s Grub Street blog dubbed Ozark Café the state’s must-try spot for foodies.
The Ozark Café
107 East Court St, Jasper, AR
870.446.2976
ozarkcafe.com
Oark General Store
Oark, Arkansas
There can only be one that can lay claim to being “the” oldest of anything and if you truly want to go back to the beginning, you must visit Oark General Store, opened in 1890.
To be clear, the place is not the oldest restaurant in Arkansas as its food lineage doesn’t go back as far as the centenarian-plus general store suggests. But the same building that gave Newton County travelers a welcome break from horseback or wagon seat now does the same for those nosing their Harleys along the sweeping mountain highway.
Husband and wife ownership team Brian and Reagan Eisele are former Congressional aides who met when taking staff delegation trips to Azerbaijan. They jumped at the chance to buy the store as newlyweds, despite having zero experience in food service. Today, the couple is every bit a part of the landmark as the one-hundred-thirty-one-year-old building itself.
The burgers are a sound choice here as is the patty melt sandwich. Whatever you do, save room for pie, Oark’s calling card. Try the oatmeal pie, routinely ranked as one of the state’s best, or any one of the fruit-in-season varieties.
Oark General Store
117 County Road 5241, Oark, AR
479.292.3351
oarkgeneralstore.com
Olde Crow General Store
Benton, Arkansas
Rounding out our list of great community diners is the Olde Crow General Store located near the unincorporated community of Crows in Saline County. The low, whitewashed building is home to fresh local produce and meats as well as a selection of Arkansas-made goods. It’s also a spot that serves some of the best sandwiches you’ll find anywhere.
The Rubicon is a star; the store’s toasty take on the Reuben sandwich. Other standouts are the Boss Hogg with shaved ham and Swiss cheese and a terrific club sandwich on wheat. A burger made with meat sourced locally also gets high marks. All sandwiches feature artisanal-quality bread, fresh ingredients and everything is made when you order. Even the impressive selection of pies and cobblers came out of the oven fresh that day.
Last year was a tough one for independent restaurants and those businesses serving small, rural audiences. Caesi Holt, Olde Crow’s owner, said the store’s clientele rallied to the cause by supporting the store when it needed it most. Spend a little time enjoying the wonderful food at this unique spot and you’ll easily see why.
Olde Crow General Store
17202 Highway 5, Benton, AR
501.794.2393
oldecrowgeneralstore.com
